EGG-PRON: The Egg Gathering Apron

Eggpron Pattern

 

This is a basic pattern I designed for a rectangular apron with a dozen attached egg sized pockets on it…it is designed to hold just-gathered chicken eggs… it has a ruffled edge on it….  Make it smaller, wider, narrower, add egg pockets, canter the pockets, don’t add the ruffle…whatever works for your vision or with your stash…

eggprin1

I once made a delightfully cute one egg egg-pron for a very small child: e5

 

 

  • SC=single crochet
  • DC=double crochet
  • SS=slip stitch
  • stitch into back=stitch only into the back loop not both loops of a stitch

 Materials:

 I recommend using scraps of Red Heart Super Saver Solids yarn from your stash, but, really, you can use just about anything.

  • MC (main color) for apron body
  • CC (contrast color)for apron edging and ties
  • RC (random colors) for egg pockets

 

G or H hook or whatever it takes to get your Eggpron to useable egg-gathering apron size.

 Apron body:

In MC

Chain 77 (75 stitches plus 2)

Row 1: Starting with the third stitch in, DC into back of every stitch

Row 2-22: Chain 2, DC in back of every stitch. Bind off.

 

Egg-Pockets:

In RC

Make these one at a time, attaching them to each other as you go, until you get 6 in a row. Make two rows.

I have two ways to make the egg-pockets. I use both methods so that there are slightly different sized pockets to hold different sized eggs on each egg-pron, but if you want uniform pockets, go solely with the first option.

egg2

Chain 3

Slip stitch to make a ring

SC 6 into ring

SC twice into back of each stitch (12 stitches)

SC twice into back of every other stitch (18 stitches)

SC twice into back of every other stitch (27 stitches)

SC into back of each stitch until the pocket is about 3 inches long.

 

OR

 

Chain 3

Slip stitch to make a ring

SC 6 into ring

Switch between SC and (SC twice) into the backs of stitches randomly until you feel that the rounds are wide enough to hold an egg, and long enough to cover 80% of it (like a snug pocket). It may take you a few rows to get the feel of how many increases to do per round to achieve your egg-pocket dimension goal—don’t fear pulling out a few rows and redoing them, it doesn’t take long to get the hang of it, honest! J

When you have 6 of these attached together in a line, ‘top’ them off with a couple of rows of SC in a different/contrasting RC color, this makes them look tidy, gives them a slight strengthening and ensures that they are deep enough to hold eggs:

Row 1 SC across the outer edge of the pockets, in a big oval (don’t meander through the side edges, you want them to be slightly shorter than this oval topper).

Row 2 SC into the back of every stitch of row 1. Bind off.

 

Attach to the apron body, one row above the other. (I use a slip stitch to sort of ’embroider’ them on.)

 

eggspron

Apron Edges:

 In CC

Starting at either top side corner, SC down one side, chain a stitch in the corner, SC across bottom, chain a stitch in the corner, SC up the other side.

Chain one, SC down the side to the bottom, chain one, then DC3X into every single stitch across the bottom (to make the ruffle), chain one, SC up the side. Bind off.

egg3

Apron Strings:

 In CC

Row 1: Chain 75 continue to SC across top of apron body then continue chain 77

Row 2 Starting with the third stitch in, DC into backs of every stitch (or not, depending on how you want it to look—either way is fine) to end.

If you want a thinner string, bind off now.

If you want a thicker string, chain two and repeat Row 2. Bind off.

 

 

 

This pattern is free to use for making egg prons. Don’t sell the pattern itself, but heck, if you make a bunch of egg prons…go ahead, sell the egg prons.

 

Copyright 2016 SaxonKnits

Advertisements

Buzz Off: Wasp Nest Decoy

G hook and Red Heart yarn option
Red Heart Yarn and a G hook version
I Hook chunky yarn version
I Hook chunky yarn version

 

No need to kill these buzzy garden-helpers. Wasps won’t hang around other wasp territories. Make them think that your space is a bigger and badder wasp territory with this decoy nest!  Presto, no more wasps in your face. And still wasps in the garden.  Here’s how I made them:

MATERIALS

G hook (or H hook will work too)

Red Heart Acrylic yarn.

OR

 

I Hook (or J hook will work too)

Chunky acrylic yarn (you can use Red Heart yarn held doubled).

Greys or tans work best for these. The amount of yarn you have on hand will dictate how big your nest will be….I used about 60% of a skein of Red Heart for that huge (about 20 inch high) G hook version, and about the same for the mid-sized (about 15 inch high) I hook version.

You will be making many more rounds if you use the G hook option, but I think it took less yarn than the I hook option, if you look at the sizes. Both fool wasps equally well. The choice is yours.

 

DIRECTIONS

Chain four.

Make into a circle with a slip stitch.

Round 1) Double crochet into this circle three or four times.

Round 2) Double crochet into  back loop of each stitch twice.

Continue with round two until base diameter of wasp nest is as big as you want (I think a good couple of inches at least).

Continue to double crochet into back of almost every stitch once,  and every once in a while to double crochet TWICE into the back of a stitch–this gradual increase will give your nest the gentle ‘balloon’ look (as opposed to looking like a tube). Keep going until the wasp nest is almost as tall as you want it to be (you’ll be adding to the length to make the rounded top).

Note:  you can vary the stitches—crocheting some singles, some triples, to give the rounds a more organic nature like I did, or you can stick to double crochet. If you don’t like the striped/row  effect, you can just stitch into the whole stitch rather than into the back loops of the stitches.

When you want to make the top, begin to skip a stitch every fifth stitch, then every fourth stitch, then every third then every second until it is almost closed (or you can gradually  decrease , just like you gradually increased, as soon as you hit about 70% of the height you want by skipping a stitch here and there until you decide to really shape the top and then skip every fourth, then third etc…. Honestly, whatever you do, decrease-wise,  is alright so long as it makes an egg shaped /wasp-nest shaped shape in the end)—stuff it with whatever it is you wish to stuff it with (I use plastic bags myself, for ease of worry about it going moldy in the rain) and then stitch into every other stitch to close up the hole, chain a long tie line. Break off. Then chain another and attach it, so you have two (like shoe laces) you can tie to wherever it is you want to hang it.  Or you can just chain a loop to hang it by.

 

There you go. Hang it up. Tell the wasps to buzz off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two Needle Long Tail Stocking Cap

By SaxonKnits

This is a knitted triangle that folds to become a cap!

1 skein Red Heart Super Saver (I used about 60% of one)
Size 9 needles and a yarn needle for sewing seam (or a crochet hook for crocheting the seam closed, which is what I tend to do).

Cast on 80 stitches
K2 P2 for 3 inches
Stocking stitch for 4 inches

(K6 K2TOG) repeat to end
Stocking stitch for 7 rows

(K5 K2TOG) repeat to end
Stocking stitch for 7 rows

(K4 K2TOG) repeat to end
Stocking stitch for 7 rows

(K3 K2TOG) repeat to end
Stocking stitch for 7 rows

(K2 K2TOG) repeat to end
Stocking stitch for 7 rows

( K2TOG) repeat to end
Stocking stitch for 7 rows

K2TOG K6 K2TOG
Stocking stitch for 7 rows

K2TOG K1 K2TOG K1 K2TOG
Purl one row

K2TOG K1 K2TOG
Purl one row

K3TOG
Purl one row

Cast off.

Fold in half length-ways, secure up seam.

copyright 2016 SaxonKnits

Two Needle Gusseted Mittens

mallory mitts.JPG

By Saxon Knits

 

Long ribbed cuff to keep wrists warm as well as hands.

 

Size 5 needles

Two markers

Stitch holder

DK yarn

 

K1M1=knit one, make one by knitting again in same stitch (I pick up lower loop)

 

MAIN BODY OF MITTEN:

 

CO 40 stitches

K2 P2 rib for 15 rows

Stocking stitch for 2 inches

 

  • K19 PlaceMarker  K1M1  K1M1 PlaceMarker K19
  • Purl
  • Knit
  • Purl
  • K19  SlipMarker  K1M1 K2  K1M1 SlipMarker K19
  • Purl
  • K19 SlipMarker K1M1 K4  K1M1 SlipMarker K19
  • Purl
  • Knit
  • Purl
  • K19 SlipMarker  K1M1 K6  K1M1 SlipMarker K19
  • Purl
  • Knit
  • Purl
  • K19 SlipMarker K1M1 K8  K1M1 SlipMarker K19
  • Purl
  • K19 SlipMarker  K1M1 K10  K1M1 SlipMarker K19
  • Purl
  • Knit
  • Purl
  • K 18 K1M1 RemoveMarker place 14 stitches on holder RemoveMarker K1M1 K to end

 

Stocking stitch until mitten is 10” from CO edge

 

  • K3 K2TOG (K5 K2TOG to end)
  • Purl
  • Knit
  • Purl
  • K2 K2TOG (K4 K2TOG to end)
  • Purl
  • Knit
  • Purl
  • K1 K2TOG (K3 K2TOG to end)
  • Purl
  • K2TOG (K2 K2TOG to end)
  • Purl
  • K2TOG to end
  • Purl

Cast off

 

THUMB:

 

Pick up 14 stitches

Stocking Stich for 2”

Break yarn, pull through the stitches and secure.

 

Copyright SaxonKnits 2016